@watchroll_la and I spend an hour Sunday morning chatting about watches, telling stories behind a few of my watches, the Rolex Datejust 1601, Rolex Daytona 116500LN and Vacheron Overseas 4500v and talking about our favorite new Rolex 2020 releases.
I think the goal of many collectors is to find the perfect thing that they collect. Something that they aspire to, something that inspires them, something that might be so good that it might be the final piece of the puzzle. For me, it was always owning a stainless steel sports watch from one of the holy trinity brands.
It was down to either an Audemars Piquet Royal Oak 15202 or a Vacheron Constantin Overseas 4500v, both in blue. I’ve had limited experience and wrist time with both so it was a true toss up. As I came to discover, trying to acquire the AP 15202 at retail has become downright silly and sadly ridiculous. The most logical option seemed to be the Overseas 4500v.
June 21, 2020. Father’s Day and my birthday. My lovely wife and awesome son initially presented me with some Vacheron swag. A belt and coffee table book. Cool! Then a big box appeared... After a few minutes of playing guess what this is, I ripped the wrapping off, to find a big brown box. Could it be? Opened that, and found another black box. Opened that and discover a nice black, lacquer finish wood box with the Vacheron logo. Could it be? I opened that box and... Oh. My. God. The Overseas in blue wrapped in all its factory plastic glory!
The watch itself is as every bit as good as I hoped it would be and more. The highly decorated and detailed 5100 movement, that beautiful 22K gold rotor, the beautiful polished and brushed case and bracelet, the Maltese cross design motif and lastly, that dial, the stunning lacquer, sun brushed, blue dial. The most logical choice has become the best choice.
This is easily the very best watch in my collection. And I’m not referring to best as in technical prowess, although it’s up there in that category as well, but best as in its sentimental value. It’s so good that this is that perfect thing that I was seeking. While this might not be the last watch ever, there’s nothing else that I want. It just doesn’t get any better than this.
SANTOS DE CARTIER WSSA0013
Iconicism. The idea of iconicism is the one resounding theme throughout my collection. From the Submariner to the Speedmaster, I’ve tried to collect iconic watches. And iconicism is what brought me to the Cartier Santos. Being the first men’s purpose built wrist watch ever made and first pilot’s watch for Alberto Santos-Dumont, the Santos is, in my opinion, arguably the most iconic ever.
The latest Santos is a fantastic modern version of the classic Santos, while still retaining its DNA and essence over the course of the model line’s 100 plus year history. I opted for the blue dial version, which sadly only comes in the XL size, my only criticism. The best part is easily the blue/black gradient sunburst dial. It’s so simple, yet complex. It looks lovely from 6 feet away but the details reward you upon closer inspection.
Similar to other iconic watches, like the Sub and Speedmaster, the updates in this latest Santos are subtle, with the small incremental improvements working towards a leap in a better design and user experience.
IWC VINTAGE AQUATIMER 3231-01 on a Panerai CAOUTCHOUC Strap
One day in 2008, while browsing watches online, I came across the newly announced IWC Vintage Aquatimer 1967 from their limited Vintage Collection. IWC may be better known for making pilot watches, but they make a pretty good diver as well. Like with all IWC’s from that era, it was big, bold, very masculine. I really wanted the watch but I was a day too late, and many dollars too short.
So when Govberg alerted me that they had one for sale in pristine condition, with full box and papers, last year, I jumped on it. Compared to the other divers in my collection, this one is pretty unique. It has an inner rotating bezel and twin crowns. The upper screw down crown is used to set the time/date while the lower one is used to set the inner bezel.
It’s a very cool execution and serves as a great summer beach watch - perfect for an Angeleno like myself, since summer is almost endless here.
/ TOMMY
1972 Tudor Submariner 7016 on AN ADPT NATO STRAP
My story with the Tudor Submariner begins with the Tudor Black Bay, actually a few of them.
I purchased my first Black Bay in Jan 2015, a blue ETA version. By the end of that year, it was sold for the Black Bay in black. Then a year later, it was back to the Black Bay in blue, but with an in-house movement. About two years later in 2018, that was sold for the new Black Bay 58 on NATO. And that original BB58 on NATO was sold for a BB58 on bracelet.
With the BB58, I really thought it was the one to have and keep. It was better proportioned than the original Black Bay’s, smaller and thinner, just like those old vintage Subs. That got me looking into the vintage Subs more.
By April 2019, the stars aligned, I received an offer for the BB58 that I couldn’t say no to and I found a very good example of a 1972 Tudor Submariner snowflake. Recently serviced, but left unpolished, original dial and hands that had turned into a creamy patina color. Just gorgeous. While I never quite connected with the Black Bay, it drove me to the Sub instead.
/ TOMMY
ROLEX DAYTONA 116500LN
I was very much a car guy, before becoming a watch guy. For the same reasons that I love watches, I love cars. It’s the mechanics, it’s the purpose built analog mechanics working in a modern, digital age. One watch connects both world for me - the fabled Rolex Daytona. However as I soon discovered, wanting one is easier then actually acquiring one so here’s my story...
March 2016. Rolex announces a new Daytona model, the 116500LN, with a ceramic bezel, dubbed the DaytonaC.
June 2016. I successfully put myself on the waitlist on a couple of ADs.
January 28, 2019. I get a call from one AD, asking if I had any interest in a pre-owned Daytona 116520 in white? Not quite the call I was hoping but excited nonetheless, I said yes. A few days later, on Thursday, January 31st, the 116520 arrives.
I spent the weekend with it but I was having second thoughts. With the silver subdial rings against the white dial, it didn’t have enough contrast. In my opinion, the black with silver subdial rings is the one to have in this 116520 model.
February 4, 2019. 7am. I’m at LAX about to board a flight when I get a call from the same AD who just sold me the Daytona days ago. It was THE CALL for a white 116500LN. What the... I mean I have to say yes, right?
I board the flight, a couple of hours later, I’m in Austin, TX for a quick layover. There can only be one so the ‘520 had to go. From the American Airlines lounge in Austin, I called and shopped the 520 around to multiple dealers back home in LA. One offered me 15% more than what I paid so done. I called my wife at home, asked her to please take the watch with box and papers there and sell it to them. As the plane was taxiing, I called the AD back to confirm and worked out a few last details. While in the air, somewhere over Texas on the plane’s wifi, I paid.
The white Daytona arrived a day later, Tuesday, February 5th. After spending what seemed to be the longest week of my life away on business, I came back home on Thursday, February 7th with a brand new Daytona awaiting.
Net-net it all worked out, I had gotten a watch that I patiently waited almost three years for and for less than MSRP, if you factor in selling the 520.
/ TOMMY
OMEGA SEAMASTER PROFESSIONAL 210.30.42.20.03.001 ON AN OMEGA RUBBER STRAP
James Bond, 007. Ian Fleming imagined his version of literary Bond wearing a Rolex Explorer. In the movies, the film character of James Bond mostly wore a Rolex Submariner. Then came Goldeneye in 1995, and with it, ushering in a whole new era of bolder product placement marketing in film and television, namely with the Omega Seamaster. Jean-Claude Biver, an industry legend, then presiding over Omega, placed the Seamaster on the wrist of 007, actively promoted the connection and arguably saved Omega.
My Dad was a big fan of James Bond. He watched every new movie on release day and on TV whenever they were played. As I grew up, I started to watch the Bond movies with him and got hooked too. So when I started thinking of buying my first luxury automatic watch, the Bond SMP was the only choice and the Seamaster Professional 2531.80 ended up on my wrist.
15 years later in 2018, the SMP was sold and Omega announces a new version of the Seamaster, welcoming back the wave dial design, now in ceramic. It’s a beautiful update and I just had to have it. So by the end of that year, the newest Bond SMP is back on my wrist again and not ever leaving again.
/ TOMMY
ROLEX DATEJUST 1601 on a HERMES STRAP
This one is a special one - my Dad’s 1972 DJ that was originally purchased in Hong Kong in the same year, along with an Omega De Ville Saphette as wedding gifts for my Mom and himself. My Dad rarely wore this, it spent most of its life in a safe deposit box, except for special occasions, such as my graduation ceremony.
Fast forward to 2002, my Dad passed away after a long battle with heart disease. The watch itself was no where to be found and I had just assumed that he sold it at some point or lost it.
Now jump over to June 2018. I was in Miami to help clean out a old storage unit belonging to my parents. There were boxes and boxes of just stuff, some even from my childhood, but mostly old stuff. I come across this box of items from my Dad’s desk and inside was his DJ! I found it!! I FOUND IT!!!
The watch itself is in pretty good condition, but a bit scratched up so maybe my Dad did wear more than I remembered. I have no idea of its service history, even if it was serviced ever. Miraculously it runs, but not well and in need of service, which I’m planning to do once things return back to normal.
/ TOMMY
IWC Pilot CHRONOGRAPH TOP GUN 3890-01
Cue up Danger Zone and F-14 Tomcats flying into the sunset during golden hour because the IWC Chrono Top Gun is the absolute coolest watch in my collection. The coolness starts with the matte black ceramic case, titanium crown, pushers and that steel caseback, with the engraved Top Gun logo - so good.
The best part is the in-house 89361 movement, which was one of the biggest reasons I brought it. It features an impressive 68 hours of power reserve, flyback function, and a chronograph with hour and minute counter integrated into a single subdial. The integrated chronograph uses a column wheel, as well as a vertical clutch, while the movement has the Pellaton winding system that IWC has been known for.
It’s a unique watch, powered by a technical marvel, and honors one of our military’s best and most well known instructional programs, the United States Navy Fighter Weapons School or TOPGUN. And the loose connections to the original movie, in name only, and its upcoming sequel are pretty neat too.
/ TOMMY
ROLEX EXPLORER 214270 MK 2 on an EVEREST RUBBER STRAP
I was always fascinated by the Explorer 1. It has so much history and practicality from the Oyster Perpetual “Pre-Explorer” that Tenzing Norgay wore during his historic ascent up Mount Everest, with Sir Edmund Hillary to gracing the wrists of beautiful Victoria’s Secret models, from boardroom to the beach, the Explorer 1 works well in almost any situation. The Explorer is considered by many, including myself, to be the ultimate go anywhere, do anything “GADA” watch. I loved the old 1016’s but not so much the modern ones. The non-lumed 3-6-9 markers looked odd to me, and the hands were slightly too short. Then at Baselworld 2016, Rolex fixed everything that I didn’t like in an updated version of the Explorer 214270, dubbed the Mk 2. With lumed 3-6-9 markers and slightly longer hands, this is the Explorer that I’ve been waiting for.
I purchased mine around mid-2017, just months before Rolex sports stainless steel watches began disappearing from AD shelves. I traded up from my Tudor Ranger, plus a bit in cash, for it. I recently fitted it on an Everest rubber strap while retaining the original clasp - it’s such an good looking yet functional combination.
/ TOMMY
